How Camels Paved the Way for Route 66 – The Desert Way with Jaylyn and John

It wasn’t Camel cigarettes that paved the way for Route 66, although that would come later with its billboards and imagery appearing along the iconic Mother Road.

It was living, breathing dromedaries (one humped Arabian camels) and Bactrian camels (two humped) acquired from Turkey, Egypt, and Tunisia.

A persistent legend of the Southwest is the camel who roams the deserts.

From Banning, California, to San Antonio, Texas, weary prospectors far from civilization tell of a great red camel or an ancient white one, still wearing a leather Army saddle.

Sometimes the camel has even been seen with a ghostly rider, a skeleton lashed to its back, moving across the sands into the distance.

Behind the legend there is some truth, and the yarns swapped around the desert campfires are based on actual happenings.

Independent, Aug 08, 1941

In 1851 Joseph Warren Fabens wrote a novel which became very popular, called The Camel Hunt, in which he described an imaginary expedition to Algiers to import camels for use in California. Fabens especially emphasized the swiftness of the camel.

Mississippi Senator Jefferson Davis (who later became President of the Confederacy) had been trying to interest Congress in his camel scheme for four years.

As chairman of the Senate Committee on Military Affairs in 1851, he proposed that the War Department’s annual budget carry an extra appropriation to import thirty camels and twenty dromedaries of various breeds, together with ten Arabs familiar with their habits, and try them out in the deserts of the Southwest.

But the senators greeted Davis’ proposal with laughter. Most had never been to the Southwest deserts nor seen a live camel. To them, the ungainly, long legged beast was a menagerie attraction fit for a circus, not army equipment.

The lands acquired in the Mexican War included all of California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, and the western parts of Colorado and New Mexico, embracing the area of 529,000 square miles. It required serious desert transportation.

The discovery of gold in northern California in 1848 gave great impetus to the westward movement.

Camel caravans delivered military supplies from San Antonio to Los Angeles in 1857. Courtesy Harper’s Weekly Magazine, 1877.

By 1853, Davis became Secretary of War, and he continued his interest in the use of camels for military purposes in the Southwest. Again, Congress failed to appropriate any money for the purpose. Davis renewed his resolve.

Davis pointed out that the special characteristics of the Southwest–its vast stretches of arid desert–called for an animal better equipped for such travel than the horse or mule. He began to gain support from government officials and the general public.

According to an article in The Sunday Oregonian, on July 19, 1970, these were not the first camels to be brought to the New World from the Old, from where they had migrated from North America to Asia across the Siberian land bridge, before the Ice Age.

About 1550 the Spanish tried camels in Peru and a number of them were brought to Virginia in 1701. For unknown reasons, both experiments failed.

Beale destinguished himself carrying dispatches in California in December 1846, during the Mexican War. Engraved portrait published in John C. Fremont: Memoirs of My Life, Volume I, page 580. Note Midshipman Beale’s Mexican style jacket, wide-brimmed hat and the brace of pistols worn on his belt. U.S. Naval History and Heritage Command Photograph.

In Washington, there was another man who was jubilant over the coming camel expedition. Henry Constatine Wayne could barely restrain his delight as he read the official letter from the Secretary of War.

Lieutenant Edward Fitzgerald Beale, who crossed the continent several times, carrying government dispatches, believed the importation of the beasts of burden should be attempted.

In 1857 President James Buchanan appointed Edward Beale to survey and help establish a trade route along the 35th parallel from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Los Angeles, California.

The Modesto Bee, August 8, 1953

Beale was a multi-faceted frontiersman who was a war hero, explorer, spy, diplomat and rancher who had a hand in the Gold Rush, creating the road that eventually turned into Route 66 and victory in the Mexican-American War.

The survey incorporated an experiment from the Army, to use camels instead of horses, to survey the region.

The camels proved to be hardy and well suited to travel through the desert region.

Since the camel was called “the ship of the desert” in the Sahara, in theory camels should prove equally worthwhile in the American Southwest.

Camels were capable of traveling for days without water and could thrive on desert forage as the wagon road was surveyed.

The Dallas Weekly Herald, January 25, 1860

Texas was about to come face to face with the United States Camel Corps. Camp Verde, Texas, a Calvary post, became camel headquarters.

Major Henry Wayne and Lieutenant David Porter were put in command of securing the camels from the Middle East.

Unfortunately, the camels were apparently not eager to prove their worth.

It was late August of 1856 when this first group of camels finally arrived at Camp Verde. The second load of 40 animals arrived during the spring of 1857.

Beale created a popular trail that allowed new settlers to reach the high desert and the valley below.

Indianola, in Calhoun County, was a bustling port between Galveston and Corpus Christi in the 1800s.

The camels arrived in the US at Indianola, Texas on April 29, 1856. When the Army Corps of Topographical Engineers imported 34 camels to survey the wagon road from Albuquerque to Los Angeles the mule lobby in Missouri had a meltdown.

“Camels,” some scoffed, “were ill-tempered, stubborn and ugly, had bad breath and wouldn’t learn English.”

However, while on a 60 mile endurance race between mules and camels, the camels won by an impressive margin yet ultimately were ditched.

Fort Worth Star Telegram, July 31, 1949

“Hi Jolly” of Syrian and Greek heritage, also known as Hadji Ali and Philip Tedro, accompanied the camels to the New World.

According to the National Archives, other drivers who were dubbed with “American” names were Greek George (George Caralambo), Long Tom (Hagiatis Yannaco), Mico (Mimico Teodora) and Short Tom (Anastasio Coralli).

Michelo Giorgios, Yanni Illiatio and Giorgios Costi were also drivers.

With the help of Hi Jolly, Greek George and others, Major Wayne began training many disgusted Cavalrymen to be camel handlers.

Once in the desert, camels would plod along peacefully, led by their Texan and Syrian guides. Suddenly becoming uncontrollable, they would squeal, kick, bite, then take off across the desert.

Hadji Ali (Hi Jolly) and his bride, taken in Tuscon. Photo Public Domain, Wikimedia.

In addition to their repugnant odiferous capabilities, camels were stubborn, mean and difficult to handle.

They sometimes killed mules and even attacked their handlers. They also had a habit of spitting a vile substance in the faces of those they disliked.

Horses and mules went insane with fear when they smelled a camel. They could be taught to tolerate them but there was never really an amiable relationship. The Camel Express reached from San Antonio to Los Angeles.

A quick mention must be made of the 1976 Hollywood production that tackles the story of the camels and the men and horses who loved them not, check out the movie, “Hawmps.” While accuracy is lacking, it is a fun film for its time.

Courtesy of Mulberry Square Releasing, 1976.

Speaking of camels, did you know that Jose Policarpo “Polly” Rodriguez founded the small town of Polly, Texas in 1858, all because of camels?

Polly was was a noted frontiersman, surveyor and US Army scout with the 2nd Calvary who became one of the first settlers of Bandera County.

Polly was also the man who was sent out to find the U.S. Army’s missing camels, after they wandered away from nearby Camp Verde.

That’s how he discovered the property he fell in love with. The magic and serenity of the area is still evident.

Among the things in life that we are grateful for, and there are many during our stay in Texas, was living in a place that values its history is a special treat. This house is gone, as are all of these people.

It was built right after the Civil War by the gentleman in the foreground who is holding the bowler hat, Jose Policarpo Rodriguez.

Photo courtesy of Polly, Texas Historical Association. Enhanced by John Earl.

Polly was close to our Bandera home and we visited it frequently. While the house is gone, the chapel that Polly built is still there, just about 3 miles away.

Now, as far as I know, there have been no movies on the life of Polly Rodriguez. That is a travesty, in our opinion.

Born in Mexico, and raised in Tejas, Polly had a few events that would play well in a cinema release. Texas Ranger, gunsmith, hunter, Army scout, Indian fighter, justice of the peace and preacher, he pretty much covered all the bases of a 19th Century frontier man.

His purchase of acerage and land grants provided him with over 4,000 acres and became the basis of the initial J.P. Rodriguez Settlement that later became the town of Polly, Texas.

Polly’s one room schoolhouse, chapel and cemetery are still present today. The chapel was usually unlocked and we enjoyed its peace whenever we visited.

Polly’s Chapel, Polly, Texas.

When Beale left on his wagon-road survey in 1857, he took only 24 of the government’s herd of 71 camels. The rest of them were left at Camp Verde and continued to be used to carry supplies.

Lt. Beale wrote in one his reports that he’d rather have one camel in the desert rather than four of his best mules.

He spent four years exploring and surveying the deserts of the Southwest with his camels.

The large two-humped Bactrian could carry 600-700 pounds, twice the load of a packmule, and travel 20-30 miles a day.

The Sacramento Bee, April 3, 1866

No grain or hay was needed, as the camels enjoyed devouring greasewood, sagebrush, cacti and most other desert vegetation they foraged with gusto. If necessary, they could travel for a week without drinking water.

In 1861 a party working for the federal government made a reconnissance from a line from Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles, California, to Owen’s Valley, 270 miles north-northeast of the then small community of Los Angeles. The data was used when the boundary between California and Nevada was surveyed and established.

Four camels and two camel drivers were assigned to the party, which went through rugged territory, including Death Valley. Two of the camels fought and one was killed with its powerful jaws. The packmules suffered in the grueling conditions but the camels literally took it in stride.

Courtesy of Camels to California, published 1950.

The Civil War proved to be the straw that broke the camels back. There were over 50 camels in residence at Camp Verde when the war between the states erupted.

During the winter of 1861, Camp Verde was captured by the Confederacy. When the camp was recaptured by the US Government in 1865, there were more than 100 camels.

Some were rounded up and sold. Others were eaten by Apaches but the majority were set loose along the Gila River. The last camel was seen there in 1875.

The Los Angeles Times, March 26, 2003

Beale would go on and buy some of the camels and keep them at his ranch in Fort Tejon, California.

Beale founded the Tejon Ranch as we know it between 1855-1866 when he purchased four Mexican land grants that totaled 270,000 acres—real estate roughly equivalent in size to metropolitan Los Angeles.

In November 1863 thirty-four camels were moved from southern California to the Naval Arsenal at Benicia, where they were sold at auction on 26 February 1864. This photograph shows the buildings in which they were kept.

Courtesy of Benicia Industrial Park, Benicia, California. U.S. Naval History and Heritage Command Photograph.

Camp Verde General Store is nestled in the Texas Hill Country on the banks of the Verde Creek and was first established in 1857.

The present day two story limestone structure of Southern colonial design was constructed after a flood swept away the original building around 1900.

The general store was established to offer goods and services to the soldiers stationed at Camp Verde, a mile to the west.

By the time the US Army deactivated Camp Verde, the General Store and post office had become an important part of the community, serving the growing number of pioneer ranchers in the area.

Camp Verde was abandoned on April 1, 1869, thus ending the great camel experiment. Ruins of the officers’ quarters just down the road are located on what is now private land.

A Texas state historic marker and the entrance gate stand by the road. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places on May 25, 1973.

Shown here is the entrance to the original Camp Verde near Camp Verde General Store. It is presently a private residence.

While a fire destroyed the buildings of nearby Camp Verde in 1910, the courage and bold spirit of the Great Camel Experiment survives to this day in the general store.

Remember the old tobacco advertising slogan, “I’d walk a mile for a camel.” There’s no need in this case unless you crave a cardio workout.

Just open the door, but no fumar.

If you don’t mind driving a few miles though, you can visit Movieland Animals or The Camel Farm, a unique animal adventure where you can get up close and personal with camels, zebras, kangaroos, and other animals, including camel rides.

We highly recommend you visit Campe Verde General Store and Restaurant. We promise you won’t be sorry you did.

The store is chock full of unique, beautiful items and books. The restaurant offers a delicious menu and spectacular ambience you will likely always remember.

John takes a stroll in front of the Camp Verde General Store and Restaurant.

We have special memories of many a good meal with friends here, including having lovely lunch with a genealogist from the Daughters of the Republic of Texas when Jaylyn was accepted into membership for her Great-Great-Great Grandfather, Jeremiah Goins, who came to the Republic in 1834 before it became a state. Many of her kin were also Texas Rangers.

View from the second story inside the general store. You never know where a camel might show up.

While you’re in the nearby community of Center Point, history buffs will want to check out the charming town and cemetery a few miles away. The Center Point Cemetery in Texas is notable for being the final resting place of numerous Texas Rangers, with over 30 graves marked with Texas Ranger State markers, making it a significant historical site.

Camel hair stuffed pillow at the Frontier Times Museum, Bandera, Texas.

Camels did more than supply transportation to the Mojave Desert from Camp Verde, Texas.

We saw this camel hair pillow at the Frontier Times Museum in Bandera, Texas. Visitors and locals alike enjoy 11,000 historic items and oddities on display. Where else can you see a two-headed goat?

The Wild West got a little wilder when camels were introduced. Courtesy True West magazine.

Some may claim California and Texas have nothing in common. We beg to differ. The story of the Army Camel Experiement provides one historic example of how the two states are linked.

Beale’s survey was used as the basis for Route 66, the Santa Fe Railroad and Interstate 40. Route 66 was paved and officially opened in on November 11, 1926, with road signs erected the following year.

U.S. Route 66 or U.S. Highway 66 is one of the original highways in the United States Numbered Highway System. It ran between Chicago and Santa Monica.

The Midweek News-Herald, Nov 22, 1927

The scenic section of Route 66 through the Cajon Pass was replaced by Interstate 15 by 1971.

The Interstate system continued to gradually bypass sections of Route 66, with the last section through Williams, Arizona, being bypassed by I-40 in 1984, leading to the official decommissioning of the highway in 1985.

Interstate 40 replaced much of Route 66, particularly through the desert between Barstow and Needles, California.

Ukiah Daily Journal, August 1, 1985

Many sections of the old road were preserved and are still in use today as city thoroughfares and pieces of rural highways.

The California Historic Route 66 – Needles to Barstow National Scenic Byway allows you to experience a part of history as you travel this segment of the Mother Road.

From San Bernardino to the Arizona state line US 66 followed the old National Old Trails Highway. The old highway veers away from I-15 between Victorville and Barstow, following the railroad through Oro Grande, Helendale, and Lenwood. Through Barstow, it is Main Street.

Stay vigilant. You never know when a camel might pop up. Even if it’s just in your imagination.

If Amboy on Route 66 can have an African Lion, surely La Quinta, nowhere near Route 66, can have a herd of camels.

Courtesy of John Earl.

Top Photo: Atop a cairn is a silhouette of a camel that marks Hi Jolly’s grave in Quartzsite, Arizona. Hadji Ali, or Hi Jolly, as he came to be known, was brought out west from Syria as the driver of 34 ornery camels that arrived in Indianola, Texas, on May 14, 1856. He died in Quartzsite on December 16, 1903. Photo by Jaylyn Earl.

Recommended Resources

Beale’s journal of the wagon-road survey from Fort Defiance to the Colorado River, House Executive Document No. 124, 35th Cong, 1st Sess., Washington D.C., 1858.

Blair, Brenda, Because of the Camels, Siwa Publishing, Austin, Texas, 2012.

Emmett, Chris, Texas Camel Tales: Incidents Growing Up…, San Antonio, Texas, 1932.

Fowler, Harlan D., Camels to California, A Chapter in Western Transportation, Stanford University Press, published 1950.

Lesley, Lewis Burt, Uncle Sam’s Camels, Cambridge Mass., 1929.

Luther, Joseph, Camp Verde Texas Frontier Defense, History Press, 2012.

Report of the Secretary of War Respecting the Purchase of Camels for the Purpose of Military Transportation Senate Executive Document, No 62, 34th Cong., 3rd Sess., Washington D.C., 1857.

Yancey, Diane, Camels for Uncle Sam, Hendrick-Long Publishing Company, 1995.